Shiraz or syrah, depending on whether it comes from Australia or New Zealand, is a rich, dark wine, oozing berries and spice.
Often a gorgeous, dark garnet colour, it can range from lively and peppery to voluptuously rich and velvety, and, in the bigger examples, with a firm grip that can be tooth-sucking.
While there's a lot of easy, good-value Australian shiraz around, some of the best wines reach stratospheric prices as collectors vie for them.
In New Zealand, syrahs tend to be expensive - a bit like pinot noir.
It's good to see some very drinkable ones priced in the low $20s, but for a real treat, try one of the superb ones from Hawkes Bay like the Church Road Reserve, or Mills Reef Elspeth.
◊ BEST VALUE
(about $34)
Of the dozen syrahs in this tasting, this was my favourite with the colour of deep velvet, pure fruit suggesting boysenberries and cherries, but mellowed by spicy oak and hints of nutty biscuits and toffee.
Long, powerful but in elegant balance - a bit like velvet with a crunch.
Five stars (out of five)
Good value
(about $22)
Juicy fruit suggesting raspberries and blackberries with a hint of mint, a background undertone of caramel, and a firm, dry finish.
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
(about $24)
Hints of butterscotch and coffee from the oak, but with concentrated, soft, almost jammy berry fruit and a crisp, firm, tingly finish.
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
(about $28)
Top of the line from Taylors, this has all the mouthfilling generosity of fruit from Clare and McLaren Vale in South Australia, with hints of eucalyptus, spice, rich dark berries, velvety texture and long aftertaste.
One of those fine Australian shirazes many of which now reaching stratospherical prices.
Four stars (out of five)
Good value
(about $40)
Blackberries and boysenberries with a hint of black pepper, malt and mint, balanced with spicy oak and a firm finish, make this long, concentrated wine delicious.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
Vidal Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006
(about $55)
At present this is peppery and powerful with raw oak and a firm grip, cushioned by spicy, concentrated, dark berry fruit, but it shows great promise.
Drink now if you like big, muscular wines, but if you cellar it for four or five years it may well develop into a fine complex wine.
Four stars (out of five)
Below average value
ANOTHER GLASS
Fromm La Strada Marlborough Syrah 2007
(about $32)
One of the rare syrahs from Marlborough, this oozes firm, generous fruit suggesting boysenberries and cherries with a hint of black bepper and a long, stylish impressive finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
Cottage Block Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006
(about $39)
Peppery with dried herbs and oodles of ripe blackberries and spicy oak, this wine is rich and textural but with the purity of fruit and stylish lift characteristic of Hawkes Bay syrah and a firm, grippy finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
Domaine Chandon Heathcote Shiraz 2006
(about $35)
From one of the Victorian wineries damaged by recent bushfires, this generous mouthfilling wine has intense, dark, juicy fruit, hints of eucalypt and toffee, and a firm, well-balanced finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
www.domainechandon.com.au or www.greenpointwines.com
Man o' War Dreadnought Waiheke Syrah 2007
(about $48)
A peppery wine, with dark spicy berry fruit and a hint of smoky oak, with a soft front and firm, grippy finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Below average value
