Agreeing to disagree when it comes to chardonnay

Regular readers will know that my two tasting buddies Collins and McLaren regularly sit in on these tastings. Both vastly experienced tasters, they offer a great sounding board, and temper my excesses.

We are generally on a similar page in our assessment of the wines, but today’s strong selection led to quite some diversity of opinion.

One endeavours to be objective, yet innate subjectivity can come into play, with aspects of a wine style appealing to one person and not another.

It’s a huge part of the fascination in wine that I find so rewarding.

2021 Maude Central Otago Chardonnay

Price RRP $30
Rating Excellent

Attractive biscuity/
oatmeal aromas, 
caramel, nuts, ripe 
peach, rather nice. 
The palate full of 
flavour but tightly 
wound with bright 
acidity and chewy 
grip framing the wine. 
This toyed with me, 
taking time to let its 
guard down, but 
finally blossomed, 
the elements coming 
together in delicious 
harmony. Suspect 
that a little time will 
be a friend here.

maudewines.com

2020 The Landing Boathouse Bay of Islands Chardonnay

Price RRP $29.99
Rating Very Good to Excellent

Fragrant nose, 
lanolin, wisps of 
sweet fruit, the 
merest hint of toffee. 
A more medium-
weight palate with 
lovely balance and 
integration, flavour 
intensity here too. 
Super acid line cuts 
through this giving 
freshness and cut, 
while some nutty 
nuances grow with 
aeration. Very 
appealing drinking 
right off the bat. 

thelandingwine.co.nz

2019 Carrick Cairnmuir Terraces EBM Organic Chardonnay

Price RRP $47
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

Fascinating notes, 
intrigue, a hint of funk, 
licorice, nuts, bran 
biscuit, finely scented 
oak, quietly unveils its 
secrets. Lovely 
texture, bran biscuit, 
oatmeal/‘‘mealiness’’ 
fruit in support, a tight 
citrusy line of acidity. 
Excellent structure, 
growing in the glass, 
depth, drive and 
energy. Enjoyable 
now but feels like 
there’s even more to 
give with time.

carrick.co.nz

2020 The Landing Bay of Islands Chardonnay

Price RRP $48
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

Fragrant oak scents, 
fruit salad, spices, 
nuts quite engaging. 
Creamy, supple and 
rounded palate 
bursting with flavour. 
Power and depth, 
red apple joining the 
tropical fruits, a 
touch of chewy grip, 
while a shaft of racy 
acidity whips this 
into line, leading to a 
long, lip-smacking 
close. Fresh and 
vibrantly youthful, 
you can enjoy this 
from the get go.

thelandingwine.co.nz

2021 Esk Valley Artisinal Collection Chardonnay

Price RRP $24.99
Rating Very Good to Excellent

Offers some 
different notes, fruit 
sherbet, toffee, 
caramel. The palate 
leads with a lactic 
note akin to sour 
cream, an 
underlying citrusy 
quality all backed by 
tropical fruits. Nice 
texture here, bright 
and punchy with an 
almond bittersweet 
nuance adding 
interest on the close. 
Youthful lift, but in a 
lovely place to enjoy 
now. 

eskvalleywines.com

2021 Dicey Bannockburn Chardonnay

Price RRP $30
Rating Excellent

Bursts out of the 
glass with fruit salad, 
peach and nectarine 
notes, quince with 
time. Youthful, fruit-
driven quality with an 
inviting sweet ‘n’ 
sour aspect to it. The 
fruit sweetness fills 
the mouth, while a 
tangy piquancy 
keeps this vibrant 
and lively. Good 
backbone, peach 
and oatmeal notes 
arrive, aeration 
allows it all to come 
together nicely. 

dicey.nz