Riesling is one of those fascinating grape varieties that can be so vividly indicative of its place and producer yet also engender uncertainty and frustration among a raft of wine lovers: the reason, the level of sweetness (or not).
Riesling can be bone dry with a rapier-like shaft of acidity coursing through it, lusciously honeyed and sweet, and everything in between, which is not always easy to divine.
I love it in all its beguiling guises but can see the hurdle. I’ve said this before and it is imperfect science, but the lower the alcohol, generally the greater the sweetness, which may be your only guide if there is no-one to offer advice.
Because it would be a shame to overlook this amazing variety.
2024 Mondillo Central Otago Riesling
Price RRP $35
Rating Excellent
Bright and aromatic,
lime zest, apple, almost
a dash of cracked
pepper. Nice weight in
the mouth, again playing
the lime and apple
cards, a fruit pastille
aspect alluding to fruit
sweetness yet this is
dry. Juicy, zesty and
very engaging flowing to
a long, spicy finish with
an appealing touch of
chewy grip, those fruit
pith phenolics adding to
the texture. Generosity
of flavour for now or the
cellar.
2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough (Dry) Riesling
Price RRP $25
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Sweetly perfumed,
musk and apple skin,
jasmine/white flowers
florality, a honeyed
note, a winning combo
to the fragrance. The
palate by contrast is dry
and somewhat subtle,
flavour nuances there
that seem like they are
waiting for their
moment to shine. Citrus
notes of grapefruit and
lemon arrive, while this
does show its youthful
side. More to come, I
suspect, with time in
bottle.
2015 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Riesling
Price RRP $32
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Perfumed nose, touches
of honey and lavender,
red apple, a hint of
nectarine. The palate is
juicy and crunchy,
richness that hints at
fruit sweetness yet this
is just off-dry, while a
touch of phenolics adds
grip. Apple on the close
with a wisp of lanolin.
Wines can go through
“open” and “closed”
phases and I’m left
feeling that this one has
secrets that it is yet to
reveal. Give it time to
open out.
2025 Two Paddocks Schatzi Organic Alexandra Riesling
Price CD $42 (NB Cellar Door/mailing list only/wider distribution later this year)
Rating Excellent
Fragrant, perfumed,
white flowers, flecks of
rosemary, apple, lightly
honeyed, very engaging.
The palate is lip-
smacking crisp and
juicy, fruit sweet yet with
contrasting acidity that
is never strident, a wisp
of chewiness adding to
the texture. Super
integration and balance,
already just so drinkable
yet quite youthful with
evident gas in the tank
for the future.
2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Eliza Riesling
Price RRP $28
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Fragrance soars from
the glass, musk,
lychee, honey,
preserved lemon,
spice, draws you back
for more. The palate
takes the citrus notes
to orange and mandarin
alongside marmalade,
apple and honey, fresh
acidity contrasting the
sweet fruit. We could
talk about the wine’s
complexity but this is
pure and simple so
darned moreish that
you want another
glass.
2023 Two Paddocks Schatzi Organic Alexandra Riesling
Price CD $42 (NB Cellar Door/mailing list only)
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
There’s a fruit pith/fruit
zest-like note on the
nose, a sense of
development, terpene
and honey, little nuances
popping up with each
sniff, apple and citrus a
backdrop. A quiet
sumptuousness in the
mouth, yet cooling
minerality like water over
riverstones, apple and
sweet fruit frame it all.
Simply delicious, lovely
integration, full of flavour
yet not overstated. Super
now yet with potential.
