The word "claret'' is not much heard here nowadays, wine reviewer Mark Henderson writes.
For English wine lovers, it refers to the red wines of Bordeaux, while many a local rugby commentator has been heard to mention ''a touch of claret'' when the blood bin is enforced.
In New Zealand, and even more so in Australia, it was a term often used long before grape variety labelling became commonplace, to denote a robust and full-bodied red wine.
In an example of what is old is new again, the term was mentioned in a recent masterclass by Jane Ferrari, who is a raconteur, educator and ambassador at large for Yalumba from South Australia's Barossa Valley.
Yalumba is Australia's oldest family-owned winery, dating back more than 150 years, and Jane, a regular visitor to Dunedin, held several events, including a trade function at Etrusco restaurant.
Family wineries sometimes take the different path and Yalumba has become synonymous with the white northern Rhone grape viognier (pronounced vee on yay).
Viognier was close to extinction when they first planted it, and they have justifiably become industry leaders with this grape. While their flagship Virgilius Viognier is world class, their entry level Y Series Viognier is an absolute gem and fantastic value for money.
As we settled into the reds, Jane began talking about the long tradition in Australia of blending cabernet and shiraz.
This combination has historical antecedents in Bordeaux itself, where northern Rhone syrah was sometimes added to the cabernet-merlot blend to flesh it out, but in recent times, Australia has had a virtual monopoly on this style.
Consequently, while well known in Australasia, the wonderful synergy that these two grapes can create in this "claret style'' is little known elsewhere, creating a springboard for Yalumba (and others) to introduce this combo to receptive audiences around the world. What was once old is most definitely new.
Price: $18
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
This is juicy, fresh and really appealing with citrus, apricot and a honey/honeysuckle note. A nice velvety mouth feel with stonefruit notes evident: remaining light on its feet with a long, bright finish.
A lovely introduction to this grape variety and excellent value (even better on special).
Price: $33
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
A delightful fragrance here with darker fruits, plums, spices and savoury notes. Darker fruits on the palate with a red fruit undercurrent and the ever-present savoury elements; all held together by a powerful, fine-grained, tannic structure.
Lip-smackingly delicious, complex, delightfully balanced and bags of potential.
Price: $56
Rating: Excellent
Here’s the ‘‘claret’’ option: still tight and youthful for now: hinting at its future glory. Powerfully built, yet not monolithic, swinging from the cassis and dried herb of the cabernet to the spices and dark cherry of the shiraz, a lovely fruit note hangs on the long finish.
Needing time to peel back its hidden depths and will amply reward cellaring.
