A criticism sometimes levelled at sauvignon blanc is that it can be a bit of a one-trick pony — a similarity to many wines, yet that familiarity and reliability is appealing to so many consumers. You absolutely do get what it says on the tin. But variety exists if you’re prepared to look for it. The Martinborough trio were reminiscent of the Marlborough style, though each with points of difference. The Central trio took refreshingly different paths.
2025 Te Kairanga Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Bold and pungent,
passionfruit jumps out
of the glass, cut grass,
smoke, candied lemon
zest. Ripely fruited,
almost a light honeyed
note, then snapped
into line by a tangy
counterpoint.
Suppleness to the
mid-palate, flowing to
a long, gooseberry
tinged close. Right on
the money for easy
drinking now.
2025 Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Some subtlety to the
nose initially before
red capsicum,
tomato leaf and
gooseberry perk
their heads up. Fruit
sweetness, quietly
rounded, tomato
skin, gooseberry,
fruit pastille. As this
opens up it picks up
more raciness and a
refreshing citrus
element which
keeps the whole
thing nicely zesty.
2025 Martinborough Vineyard Home Block Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Fruit lozenge like
notes display the fruit
sweetness, then
nettles, herbs,
gooseberry, citrus and
a stony quality. Cool in
the mouth, fruit
sweetness leavened
by bright acidity,
nettles, again the
chopped herbs. Nice
and lively in the
mouth, it has a
refreshing bittersweet
element that frames
the close.
2025 Maude Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent
Rather than a typical bold handshake,
this is more a gentle
caress. Subtlety, takes
a citrussy path, light
gooseberry and herb
notes in the wings,
nutty (cashew?) notes
later. Fine, elegant
palate rather than ‘‘in
your face’’, yet this is
deceptively engaging
and moreish. Citrus
drives the palate, the
fruit sweetness
matched by zesty
acidity. One to take
time over.
2024 Rabbit Ranch Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
This hits some different notes, lovely
fragrance, orange zest
and apricot lead,
gooseberry and green
herb follow with air.
The palate offers
stonefruit notes,
gooseberry and herb
holding sway as the
wine opens up. Bright
yet not strident acidity,
fine structure
underpinning the
whole, this leaves you
feeling refreshed.
Rewarding wine that is
not typically
Marlborough.
2024 Mora Old Vine Pisa Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent
Also taking a different
path, stonefruit,
smoke, stone/flint,
hinting at snow pea, a
fruit jelly fragrance,
gooseberry. A really
appealing touch of grip
and chewiness that
adds to the texture,
backbone that would
make it a great
companion to food.
Quite serious, full of
flavour, great length
while the racy acidity
neatly contrasts the
sweet fruit on the
close.
