The lineup today exemplified this for me with two North Cantebury wines that were completely new to me alongside two Marlborough producers that I haven’t had the opportunity to taste for for a couple of years or more. On the one hand exploring the newcomers and getting a feel for what they are doing, on the other the chance to see where time and evolution have taken wines that I already know. A rewarding exercise.
2024 Dunnolly North Canterbury Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Sweeter fruited nose,
red fruits, light oak
scents, spices, a touch
of milk chocolate
perhaps? Youthfully fine
and taut, ripe yet not at
all "sweet", the bright
acidity and tannins a
corset supporting the
wine. With air raspberry,
pencil shavings, the fruit
now darker berries with
growing juiciness
adding to the appeal.
The tannins build,
emphasising its youthful
quality, yet still drinking
very nicely.
2023 Mahi Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
This is all about the
fragrance at first, wild
rose, wisps of
earthiness and spice.
The palate steps up the
fruit impact while
there’s a lovely, juicy,
crunchy feel to the
texture, too. Feels
quietly assured in its
skin, not trying to be a
bruiser, just
impeccably balanced.
Fresh, lively and quietly
beguiling, gathering
depth with air and with
great brightness on the
long finish.
2023 Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Leads with struck
match, stony gravels,
pencil lead, spices,
berryfruits, while tilled
earth and perfume
follow. Layers of
interest. Power,
structure, serious wine
built for the future, the
chewy tannins and
bright acidity lending
tautness. For now this
is more cerebral than a
crowd pleaser, but
there’s no doubt that
the fruit depth is there.
Broach with food now,
great potential.
2023 Mahi Single Vineyard The Wrekin Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Brooding nose, smoke,
gravel, spice, savoury
nuances, lead pencil/
graphite, dark fruits, lots
going on, flecks of
eucalypt later. Bright
fruit jumps out on the
palate, cherry and plum
notes, backed by a
lovely chewy mouthfeel,
fresh acidity adding
vibrancy. Now extra
grip, raspberry, mineral
and earth notes,
potential but delightfully
drinkable with fine
salivatory sapidity.
2023 Dancing Water North Canterbury Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Forest floor influences
move to perfume,
earth, smoke, spice,
dark berries, wisps of
charcuterie, very
complex. Volume in
the mouth, ripe plum
and cherry, depth and
quiet power to this,
fine tannic grip and a
long, rich close. The
nose tightens a little
but the palate sails on,
the fruit richness now
joined by oak spices.
Lovely balance and
very smartly done.
2023 Mahi Twin Valleys Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
There’s a lightly wild,
sauvage quality,
earthy notes, lead
pencil, all wrapping
round the fruit, a
smoky, earthy aspect
kicks in with air time.
There’s a bright,
juicy crunchiness to
the palate, energy
and vibrancy. Mixed
berry fruits and
spice, savoury
touches with both
nutty (hazelnut and
almond) and
chocolate notes on
the long finish.
