I'll never tire of the fact that in wine you are always learning. Whether it be the impact of vintage variation, changes in farming or winemaking philosophies, new varieties, new faces at the helm of wineries, or new wineries full stop, there is something to learn in every glass. The lineup today exemplified this for me with two North Cantebury wines that were completely new to me alongside two Marlborough producers that I haven’t had the opportunity to taste for for a couple of years or more. On the one hand exploring the newcomers and getting a feel for what they are doing, on the other the chance to see where time and evolution have taken wines that I already know. A rewarding exercise. 2024 Dunnolly North Canterbury Pinot Noir Price RRP $29.99 Rating Excellent Sweeter fruited nose, red fruits, light oak scents, spices, a touch of milk chocolate perhaps? Youthfully fine and taut, ripe yet not at all "sweet", the bright acidity and tannins a corset supporting the wine. With air raspberry, pencil shavings, the fruit now darker berries with growing juiciness adding to the appeal. The tannins build, emphasising its youthful quality, yet still drinking very nicely. www.dunnolly.co.nz 2023 Mahi Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $39 Rating Excellent This is all about the fragrance at first, wild rose, wisps of earthiness and spice. The palate steps up the fruit impact while there’s a lovely, juicy, crunchy feel to the texture, too. Feels quietly assured in its skin, not trying to be a bruiser, just impeccably balanced. Fresh, lively and quietly beguiling, gathering depth with air and with great brightness on the long finish. www.mahiwine.co.nz 2023 Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Noir Price CD $50.50 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Leads with struck match, stony gravels, pencil lead, spices, berryfruits, while tilled earth and perfume follow. Layers of interest. Power, structure, serious wine built for the future, the chewy tannins and bright acidity lending tautness. For now this is more cerebral than a crowd pleaser, but there’s no doubt that the fruit depth is there. Broach with food now, great potential. www.greywacke.com 2023 Mahi Single Vineyard The Wrekin Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $74 Rating Outstanding Brooding nose, smoke, gravel, spice, savoury nuances, lead pencil/ graphite, dark fruits, lots going on, flecks of eucalypt later. Bright fruit jumps out on the palate, cherry and plum notes, backed by a lovely chewy mouthfeel, fresh acidity adding vibrancy. Now extra grip, raspberry, mineral and earth notes, potential but delightfully drinkable with fine salivatory sapidity. www.mahiwine.co.nz 2023 Dancing Water North Canterbury Pinot Noir Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Forest floor influences move to perfume, earth, smoke, spice, dark berries, wisps of charcuterie, very complex. Volume in the mouth, ripe plum and cherry, depth and quiet power to this, fine tannic grip and a long, rich close. The nose tightens a little but the palate sails on, the fruit richness now joined by oak spices. Lovely balance and very smartly done. www.dww.co.nz 2023 Mahi Twin Valleys Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $74 Rating Excellent There’s a lightly wild, sauvage quality, earthy notes, lead pencil, all wrapping round the fruit, a smoky, earthy aspect kicks in with air time. There’s a bright, juicy crunchiness to the palate, energy and vibrancy. Mixed berry fruits and spice, savoury touches with both nutty (hazelnut and almond) and chocolate notes on the long finish. www.mahiwine.co.nz
