Acids in their most powerful forms, such as sulphuric and hydrochloric, are highly corrosive yet important chemicals having a raft of uses in manufacturing and industry including fertilisers, dyes, steel production and petroleum refining. Linguistically, in its adjectival form “acidic”, it has spawned a number of synonyms whose use tends to be pejorative in nature: acerbic, caustic, sour, astringent all speak to physical characters (or people) that may be less attractive or desirable, yet acids and the acidity they provide are integral parts of our lives and present in many foods and household goods. Gastric acid helps us to digest our food, while acidity in the food itself helps to protect against microbial spoilage and acts as a preservative. Acetic acid (vinegar), malic acid (apples), lactic acid (dairy products), tartaric acid (grapes, bananas), and citric acid (many fruits) are all commonly found acids; the last often a source of the pleasure/pain principle where a barely ripe grapefruit or lemon can be incredibly sour yet also strangely addictive for some. Acidity sprung to my mind as I wrote this of the impending grape harvest in Central Otago. In simple terms, as the grapes ripen, flavours build, natural grape sugars increase and acidity begins to drop. Winemakers and viticulturists will be checking the grapes, looking for the balance point they desire in order to begin harvest. Acidity is an integral part of grapes and wine. Tartaric, malic and citric are three primary acids in grapes, while lactic, succinic and other acids may be present in the finished wine. Acidity plays an important role in protecting wine from harmful bacteria and spoilage yeasts. It can also be part of the structure or skeleton of the wine alongside tannins and phenolics. It gives freshness and vibrancy to wine, acting as a crucial counterpoint to fruit sweetness and the residual sugar in a number of wine styles. A wine lacking in acidity may sometimes be thought of as “flabby’’. Acidity was in my mind as I tasted the following three wines from Mahi in Marlborough. Max Bicknell suggested tasting these in order from their coolest to warmest vineyards and I shared the wines with my two tasting buddies and a number of industry professionals. Individual perception thresholds/tolerance to things like acidity vary from person to person and our reactions to the wines were partly informed by those perceptions. The wine from the coolest site had much more evident acidity; a style I warmed to, while most of the others felt it cried out for food. By contrast, the wine from the warmest site was riper, richer and softer which garnered favourable views, while I personally craved a little more acidity. The middle wine perhaps hit the ‘’sweet spot’’ of overall balance. It was a fascinating exercise, highlighting the differences acidity can bring to wine. 2024 Mahi S.V Twin Valleys Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent Fragrant nose, citrus and minerality, refined oak, white peach, a creamy aspect. The palate is taut, standing at attention rather than “at ease”, signalling its potential. Bright acidity lends crispness, real drive and energy, while there is great depth of flavour and structure. Opens up really well, nice length, crisp, salivatory. Pair with food now, or give this time to blossom. www.mahiwine.co.nz 2024 Mahi S.V The Wrekin Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Rockmelon, scented white flower florality, subtlety but rather beguiling. A sense of richness with super mouthfeel, showcasing oatmeal/ bran biscuit, peach, nectarine and spicy nuances. Quite refined, fine grip and backbone, combining approachability yet potential. Shows great poise, now a lightly tingly hint of fruit pithy phenolics adding depth the the finish. www.mahiwine.co.nz 2024 Mahi S.V Alchemy Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Very Good to Excellent A sense of volume, oak scents lead, ripe peach, quiet depth and elegance. Rich and supple, compared to its stable-mates this is perceptibly riper and fuller in the mouth. Oatmeal, a hint of gunflint, perfume, a wisp of humus, the nose really starting to open up. Similarly, the palate gets into the groove nicely, offering great drinking now. www.mahiwine.co.nz
