Linguistically, in its adjectival form “acidic”, it has spawned a number of synonyms whose use tends to be pejorative in nature: acerbic, caustic, sour, astringent all speak to physical characters (or people) that may be less attractive or desirable, yet acids and the acidity they provide are integral parts of our lives and present in many foods and household goods.
Gastric acid helps us to digest our food, while acidity in the food itself helps to protect against microbial spoilage and acts as a preservative.
Acetic acid (vinegar), malic acid (apples), lactic acid (dairy products), tartaric acid (grapes, bananas), and citric acid (many fruits) are all commonly found acids; the last often a source of the pleasure/pain principle where a barely ripe grapefruit or lemon can be incredibly sour yet also strangely addictive for some.
Acidity sprung to my mind as I wrote this of the impending grape harvest in Central Otago. In simple terms, as the grapes ripen, flavours build, natural grape sugars increase and acidity begins to drop. Winemakers and viticulturists will be checking the grapes, looking for the balance point they desire in order to begin harvest.
Acidity is an integral part of grapes and wine. Tartaric, malic and citric are three primary acids in grapes, while lactic, succinic and other acids may be present in the finished wine.
Acidity plays an important role in protecting wine from harmful bacteria and spoilage yeasts. It can also be part of the structure or skeleton of the wine alongside tannins and phenolics.
It gives freshness and vibrancy to wine, acting as a crucial counterpoint to fruit sweetness and the residual sugar in a number of wine styles. A wine lacking in acidity may sometimes be thought of as “flabby’’.
Acidity was in my mind as I tasted the following three wines from Mahi in Marlborough. Max Bicknell suggested tasting these in order from their coolest to warmest vineyards and I shared the wines with my two tasting buddies and a number of industry professionals.
Individual perception thresholds/tolerance to things like acidity vary from person to person and our reactions to the wines were partly informed by those perceptions.
The wine from the coolest site had much more evident acidity; a style I warmed to, while most of the others felt it cried out for food. By contrast, the wine from the warmest site was riper, richer and softer which garnered favourable views, while I personally craved a little more acidity. The middle wine perhaps hit the ‘’sweet spot’’ of overall balance.
It was a fascinating exercise, highlighting the differences acidity can bring to wine.
2024 Mahi S.V Twin Valleys
Marlborough Chardonnay
Price RRP $45
Rating Excellent
Fragrant nose, citrus and minerality,
refined oak, white
peach, a creamy
aspect. The palate is
taut, standing at
attention rather than
“at ease”, signalling
its potential. Bright
acidity lends
crispness, real drive
and energy, while
there is great depth of
flavour and structure.
Opens up really well,
nice length, crisp,
salivatory. Pair with
food now, or give this
time to blossom.
2024 Mahi S.V The Wrekin
Marlborough Chardonnay
Price RRP $45
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Rockmelon, scented white flower
florality, subtlety but
rather beguiling. A
sense of richness
with super mouthfeel,
showcasing oatmeal/
bran biscuit, peach,
nectarine and spicy
nuances. Quite
refined, fine grip and
backbone, combining
approachability yet
potential. Shows
great poise, now a
lightly tingly hint of
fruit pithy phenolics
adding depth the the
finish.
2024 Mahi S.V Alchemy
Marlborough Chardonnay
Price RRP $45
Rating Very Good to Excellent
A sense of volume, oak scents lead, ripe
peach, quiet depth
and elegance. Rich
and supple,
compared to its
stable-mates this is
perceptibly riper and
fuller in the mouth.
Oatmeal, a hint of
gunflint, perfume, a
wisp of humus, the
nose really starting to
open up. Similarly,
the palate gets into
the groove nicely,
offering great drinking
now.
