Today, a marvellous opportunity awaited in the guise of four sub-regional expressions of pinot noir by Valli and two newcomers from Domaine Thomson. The Pisa is a new offering in Valli’s sub-regional portfolio, so I’m still getting my head around its style parameters, whereas the sumptuous, perfumed Bannockburn; dark, powerful Bendigo and bright aerial Gibbston have passed my way often. Was I seduced by the power of Bendigo this year? Perhaps, but I must doff my cap to it. Nice to try biodynamic producer Domaine Thomson alongside: their new Aspiring cuvee and the youthful Surveyor Thomson struts its potential. 2023 Valli Pisa pinot noir Price RRP $85 Rating Excellent to outstanding Youthful, a dusty, stony quality, lead pencil, hints of rose petal florality, wild herb, ripe fruit/berry compote happily in support. Peeling back layers of flavour as it unfurls, now fruit, now herb, now schist, now savoury aspects, all neatly wrapped in a corset of tannic grip yet drinkability too. Aerial, a lightness of being, fresh, youthful and lip-smacking. www.valliwine.com 2023 Domaine Thomson Single Vineyard Aspiring Central Otago pinot noir Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent A wilder nose at first, freshly turned humus evolving to blood and iron filings, reminiscent of syrah, a brooding, darker fruited register. perhaps plum. The palate brings in red fruits too, a humus/ clay like note, chewy tannins and a sense of weight that fills the mouth giving generosity to the wine. Already in a nice place to enjoy now. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2023 Valli Gibbston pinot noir Price RRP $85 Rating Outstanding Bright nose, touches of wood smoke, cranberry, raspberry, bramble, wild herb, something floral, rather beguiling. Fresh, lively in the mouth, nice energy, the tannins jousting with the bright acidity. Ripe fruit, a wonderfully long, dry finish, now blueberry and lavender, developing almost a tingliness as it dances in the mouth. Fine, elegant, great complexity. www.valliwine.com 2022 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson pinot noir Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent to outstanding Schisty minerality, cracked pepper and spices, florals, savoury nuances appearing, ripe fruit in support. The palate belies the paler colour, powerfully chewy and structured, yet elegant rather than a fruit bomb. Spice and savoury notes frame the palate flowing to a lovely, long, dry close. Surprising power here, potential to unlock further with extra time in bottle. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2023 Valli Bannockburn Pinot Noir Price RRP $85 Rating Excellent to outstanding Bolder, really fragrant nose, perfume, wisps of mushroom, a sense of sweeter fruits underlying it. Really juicy and vibrant, sweetness, generosity to the fruit yet there’s freshness too, underpinned by an earthy, stony quality and fine tannins. With air this is a more tightly wound, showing its youth, several re- visits see it hinting at what is to come, I’ll score on its potential. www.valliwine.com 2023 Valli Bendigo Pinot Noir Price RRP $85 Rating Outstanding Deeply coloured and brooding, exuding richness without straying to overt sweetness. Flirts with humus, shifting to wild herbs, spices and savoury notes. Rich, dry, yet velvety texture, powerful tannins matched by the fruit depth. Almost crunchiness, lovely vitality and brightness that lifts it above the sheer power it possesses. Long, long dry finish. Superb. www.valliwine.com
