The Pisa is a new offering in Valli’s sub-regional portfolio, so I’m still getting my head around its style parameters, whereas the sumptuous, perfumed Bannockburn; dark, powerful Bendigo and bright aerial Gibbston have passed my way often. Was I seduced by the power of Bendigo this year? Perhaps, but I must doff my cap to it.
Nice to try biodynamic producer Domaine Thomson alongside: their new Aspiring cuvee and the youthful Surveyor Thomson struts its potential.
2023 Valli Pisa pinot noir
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Youthful, a dusty, stony
quality, lead pencil, hints
of rose petal florality, wild
herb, ripe fruit/berry
compote happily in
support. Peeling back
layers of flavour as it
unfurls, now fruit, now
herb, now schist, now
savoury aspects, all
neatly wrapped in a
corset of tannic grip
yet drinkability too.
Aerial, a lightness of
being, fresh, youthful
and lip-smacking.
2023 Domaine Thomson Single Vineyard Aspiring Central Otago pinot noir
Rating Excellent
A wilder nose at first,
freshly turned humus
evolving to blood and
iron filings, reminiscent
of syrah, a brooding,
darker fruited register.
perhaps plum. The
palate brings in red
fruits too, a humus/
clay like note, chewy
tannins and a sense
of weight that fills the
mouth giving
generosity to the
wine. Already in a
nice place to enjoy
now.
2023 Valli Gibbston pinot noir
Rating Outstanding
Bright nose, touches of
wood smoke, cranberry,
raspberry, bramble, wild
herb, something floral,
rather beguiling. Fresh,
lively in the mouth, nice
energy, the tannins
jousting with the
bright acidity. Ripe
fruit, a wonderfully
long, dry finish, now
blueberry and
lavender, developing
almost a tingliness
as it dances in the
mouth. Fine, elegant,
great complexity.
2022 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson pinot noir
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Schisty minerality,
cracked pepper and
spices, florals, savoury
nuances appearing, ripe
fruit in support. The palate
belies the paler colour,
powerfully chewy and
structured, yet elegant
rather than a fruit
bomb. Spice and
savoury notes frame
the palate flowing to a
lovely, long, dry
close. Surprising
power here, potential
to unlock further with
extra time in bottle.
2023 Valli Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Bolder, really fragrant
nose, perfume, wisps of
mushroom, a sense of
sweeter fruits underlying
it. Really juicy and
vibrant, sweetness,
generosity to the fruit
yet there’s freshness
too, underpinned by
an earthy, stony
quality and fine
tannins. With air this
is a more tightly
wound, showing its
youth, several re-
visits see it hinting at
what is to come, I’ll
score on its potential.
2023 Valli Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Deeply coloured and
brooding, exuding
richness without straying
to overt sweetness. Flirts
with humus, shifting to
wild herbs, spices and
savoury notes. Rich,
dry, yet velvety
texture, powerful
tannins matched by
the fruit depth.
Almost crunchiness,
lovely vitality and
brightness that lifts it
above the sheer
power it possesses.
Long, long dry finish.
Superb.
