I hope to get in a couple of tastings of Central Pinot Noir in the next few weeks as a sort of precursor to heading up to Bannockburn for harvest myself for a few days. Every year I engage in a little crystal ball gazing with my viticulturist friend Gareth, trying to get an idea when harvest will be in full swing so that I can juggle times with family and work commitments. Of course, Mother Nature has an even greater hand in this and things can change: it all depends on when the fruit is ready to be picked! It’s hard work but rewarding and when you get to try the wine a year or more later you can proudly say ‘‘I picked those grapes!’’. 2022 Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Noir Price RRP $59 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Wild rose florals, earthy nuances, elegance rather the fruit bomb path. The palate hits a highly engaging counterpoint between juiciness and structure. Red berry fruits, graphite and earth, with wonderful length and lip- smacking chewiness. Air allows the fragrance to grow superbly, a wisp of thyme now, the palate showing its depth and class. One to contemplate and savour. www.quartzreef.co.nz 2024 Maude East Meets West Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent Strikingly different nose of smoke and bonfire embers, oyster shell salinity, savoury aspects, wild herb, the fruit in a supporting role. Vibrant in the mouth, lifted, almost tingly, zesty freshness with lovely texture that envelops the palate. Medium-weight, fine, complex, the sweet fruit opening out on the close, now fine tannins getting into the groove. Fascinating wine to take time over. www.maudewines.com 2022 Folding Hill Orchard Block Bendigo Pinot Noir Price RRP $70 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Another wine where florality is to the fore, flower petal, spices, red fruits, fine and quietly beguiling, you could lose yourself in the nose. Freshness, almost cooling in the mouth, summer berries, pencil lead, earthy aspects, the tannic grip more evident as it begins to open out, excellent length with a real, zesty quality. Refined and rather elegant. www.foldinghill.co.nz 2024 Maude Kids Block Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent to Outstanding A trip to the boudoir, initially exotic perfumes, musk, lavender, spices, beginning to settle into its groove as the fruit begins to hold sway. Ripe fruits without overt sweetness, blueberry and plum, a touch of cherry, brambly herbs, spice, lots going on here. Lovely poise all the elements joining in on the wonderfully, long, dry, chewy finish. Crunchy texture now, just so inviting, urging another glass. www.maudewines.com 2021 Domaine Thomson Mercurey Price RRP $99 Rating Excellent to Outstanding The fruit leaps out, red and dark fruits at first, then the florality and savoury qualities kick in, humus, perfume building beautifully. The palate continues the theme, bright and juicy entry, grip and tannic structure quietly creep up on you, just so nicely integrated, a long, long close. Depth here without being ‘big’, not trying hard to impress and knows what it’s doing. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2024 Monte Christo Pisa Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $90 Rating Excellent A sense of volume, teasing with hints of florality, fruit pastille, flower petal, spice, wildness, showing glimpses of what is to come. Dark and chewy palate, graphite, stony minerality, raspberry, showing its youthful qualities and intent, the tannic grip really clear now on the super long close, the flavours hanging in the mouth, a touch of plum now. So much potential, a wine for the future. www.montechristowinery.co.nz
