Every year I engage in a little crystal ball gazing with my viticulturist friend Gareth, trying to get an idea when harvest will be in full swing so that I can juggle times with family and work commitments.
Of course, Mother Nature has an even greater hand in this and things can change: it all depends on when the fruit is ready to be picked!
It’s hard work but rewarding and when you get to try the wine a year or more later you can proudly say ‘‘I picked those grapes!’’.
2022 Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Wild rose florals, earthy
nuances, elegance
rather the fruit bomb
path. The palate hits a
highly engaging
counterpoint between
juiciness and structure.
Red berry fruits, graphite
and earth, with
wonderful length and lip-
smacking chewiness.
Air allows the fragrance
to grow superbly, a wisp
of thyme now, the palate
showing its depth and
class. One to
contemplate and savour.
2024 Maude East Meets West Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Strikingly different nose
of smoke and bonfire
embers, oyster shell
salinity, savoury aspects,
wild herb, the fruit in a
supporting role. Vibrant
in the mouth, lifted,
almost tingly, zesty
freshness with lovely
texture that envelops the
palate. Medium-weight,
fine, complex, the sweet
fruit opening out on the
close, now fine tannins
getting into the groove.
Fascinating wine to take
time over.
2022 Folding Hill Orchard Block Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Another wine where
florality is to the fore,
flower petal, spices,
red fruits, fine and
quietly beguiling, you
could lose yourself in
the nose. Freshness,
almost cooling in the
mouth, summer
berries, pencil lead,
earthy aspects, the
tannic grip more
evident as it begins to
open out, excellent
length with a real, zesty
quality. Refined and
rather elegant.
2024 Maude Kids Block Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
A trip to the boudoir,
initially exotic perfumes,
musk, lavender, spices,
beginning to settle into
its groove as the fruit
begins to hold sway.
Ripe fruits without overt
sweetness, blueberry
and plum, a touch of
cherry, brambly herbs,
spice, lots going on
here. Lovely poise all
the elements joining in
on the wonderfully,
long, dry, chewy finish.
Crunchy texture now,
just so inviting, urging
another glass.
2021 Domaine Thomson Mercurey
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
The fruit leaps out, red
and dark fruits at first,
then the florality and
savoury qualities kick
in, humus, perfume
building beautifully. The
palate continues the
theme, bright and juicy
entry, grip and tannic
structure quietly creep
up on you, just so
nicely integrated, a
long, long close. Depth
here without being
‘big’, not trying hard to
impress and knows
what it’s doing.
2024 Monte Christo Pisa Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A sense of volume,
teasing with hints of
florality, fruit pastille,
flower petal, spice,
wildness, showing
glimpses of what is to
come. Dark and chewy
palate, graphite, stony
minerality, raspberry,
showing its youthful
qualities and intent, the
tannic grip really clear
now on the super long
close, the flavours
hanging in the mouth,
a touch of plum now.
So much potential, a
wine for the future.
