Alex Hannagan relishes quiet luxury in Melbourne and on the high seas with a touch of “wow” fashion on the side.
It began for us at The Ritz-Carlton, Melbourne. Rising above Lonsdale St, its lofty perch feels almost other-worldly. Check-in, on the 80th floor, is a moment in itself: the city revealing its full theatre below, a cinematic sweep of skyline dissolving into the distant shimmer of Port Phillip Bay and Victoria Harbour.
Yet it is within the club level that the experience truly is one of a kind. There is a quiet, unspoken rhythm to club access - a sense that the day unfolds effortlessly. Breakfast lingers into late morning, drifting seamlessly toward lunch, before evolving again into a procession of afternoon indulgences and evening offerings. Dishes arrive not as routine but as moments - paired, if one wishes, with a glass from a discerning wine list or the celebratory effervescence of G.H. Mumm Champagne.
Then come the subtleties, the quiet luxury of complimentary pressing, the unmistakable signature of Diptyque product in the bath and shower.
At the heart of it all was Lucas, the club manager. He embodied a rare kind of hospitality - one that extends beyond service into genuine care. It was his recommendation that led us, that evening, to Reine & La Rue.
Housed within the city’s former Stock Exchange - a landmark neoclassical structure dating back to the 1890s - Reine & La Rue carries with it a sense of history that feels almost palpable. If only these walls could talk!
The restaurant itself is nothing short of theatrical. Soaring ceilings and enduring architectural grandeur, a dining room washed in a soft, golden glow. The menu, matched by a thoughtfully composed wine list, is a refined expression of French cuisine.
Each dish arrives with considered depth: each glass is guided with the sommelier’s intuitive recommendations of exceptional wines. It is the kind of place where conversation naturally softens, and the world beyond its walls gently recedes.
High above the city, our day begins in the hotel gym before easing into the quiet stillness of the 64th-floor lap pool. Suspended between sky and sea, the horizon stretches endlessly outward.
The day’s activity - the National Gallery of Victoria’s exhibition of Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo.
From the moment we entered, it delivered exactly what it promised: room after room of extraordinary fashion, each space revealing yet another layer of brilliance, craftsmanship and cultural impact.
From archival tailoring to sculptural silhouettes, the curation unfolded like a dialogue between two of fashion’s most radical voices. Westwood’s rebellious British romanticism appeared in sharply corseted waists, reimagined tartans and silhouettes that balanced history with provocation. Kawakubo’s world, by contrast, was pure conceptual poetry - volumes that defied proportion, sculptural black forms that challenged the very definition of clothing itself.
Then there was that moment. Carrie Bradshaw’s wedding dress, designed by Vivienne Westwood, stopped me in my tracks. I had one of those immediate, almost cinematic reactions - wow. The gown was every bit as iconic as memory recalls, and somehow even more extraordinary in reality.
It transported me straight back to Sex and the City - to the film where Carrie stands at the New York Public Library, believing she is about to marry Mr Big, surrounded by grand marble, heightened emotion and the kind of New York scale that makes everything feel larger than life.
Stepping into the world of Crystal felt both intimate and exciting. Having just 740 guests on board, the atmosphere is one of space, calm and understated sophistication.
The next day was a sea day. We began simply, with coffee and a warm croissant, before heading to the state-of-the-art gym. There is something undeniably good for the soul about working out while staring out to a glistening, endless ocean. From there, the day unfolded at a gentle pace, offering time to wander and explore.
A quick glance at my watch signals it is time to retreat to the serene embrace of the Elemis spa for a facial - pure bliss.
This seamlessly led to the daily question: where to lunch? On this occasion, Beefbar was an easy and entirely satisfying decision.
Early the next day we glided into Sydney, the harbour unfolding in soft morning light.
From the water, the city takes on an entirely different perspective; the graceful sweep of the Sydney Harbour Bridge feels almost within reach, while the sculptural sails of the Sydney Opera House shimmer.
What unfolded aboard Crystal Serenity felt less like dining and more like a curated journey through some of the world’s most influential culinary names.
Home to the only Nobu at sea, it brings the refined Japanese Peruvian fusion of chef Nobu Matsuhisa to the ocean. A standout, as always, is the signature black cod miso. I have had it before, yet it never fails to impress - silky, rich, perfectly balanced and deeply moreish.
Then there is Osteria d’Ovidio, Crystal’s signature Italian restaurant on deck seven. Created by Michelin-starred brothers Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo, it delivers Northern Italian cuisine with real finesse and confidence.
The braised beef tortellini is pure comfort - rich, silky pasta filled with deeply savoury beef that melts on the palate and feels instantly memorable. However, it is the table-side tiramisu that steals the show. Built right in front of us, layer by layer, it is light, creamy, indulgent and utterly irresistible.
By the final day, there is a real reluctance to leave. Instead, I find myself thinking only about when to return.
From couture and culture in Melbourne to the quiet elegance of life at sea, the experience moved effortlessly between worlds.
- Alex Hannagan is a Dunedin travel agent.
