I can’t but help feeling (after tasting these wines amidst a bigger grouping) that Chardonnay in New Zealand is going from strength to strength. The lineup of ten wines scored consistently highly, were an absolute pleasure to taste and equally importantly, I’d simply love to drink any of them. Moreover, while prices are following the pattern of everything else and creeping up, they still remain remarkably affordable for their quality. While this group covers South Island regions, I’ve bought some marvellous wines from Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay recently which just reinforce the level of quality that you find across the country. 2023 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $28 Rating Excellent Nicely expressive nose, no doubt to the variety. Peach, nutty aspects, light oak seasoning, a flinty touch, fresh and appealing. There’s a fine, almost grainy feel that just adds to the texture, cracking flavour depth with zestiness on the close leading to a delightfully fresh finish. Already drinking really well, but I feel there’s more gas in the tank for the future too. www.riverbyestate.com 2022 Isabel Estate Wild Barrique Wairau Valley Chardonnay Price RRP $39.99 Rating Outstanding Distinctive wild yeast component initially, struck match, gunflint, peach and clotted cream developing, grilled nuts, spices, stony mineral, complex. Wonderful depth and while the nose suggests fatiness this has elegance and finesse. Great structure, super balance, wonderful carry, actually rather classy. Now a little orange zest, the wild yeast notes part, so much going on here. www.isabelestate.co.nz 2023 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Old Vines Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $36 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Nose leaps out with caramel, full cream, oak spices, the ripe fruit perfectly pitched in support. Grip and chewiness to the texture, youthful and reminding you of its potential, time in the cellar will be a friend but already approachable as it manages that combination of balance, flavour depth, yet without anything overstated or out of place. Confident, elegant, cracking wine. www.riverbyestate.com 2022 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent to Outstanding So much happening on the nose, wild yeast match and gunflint, honeyed aspects, spices, ripe peach, that flinty note turning mineral. Some toasty char leads the palate, peach, nectarine, bright lemony citrus, exuding quiet richness and depth. Power matched by brightness, fresh, vital, a lovely each way bet to enjoy now or tuck in the cellar. You can easily reach for another glass. www.pegasusbay.com 2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Chardonnay Price RRP $39 Rating Excellent No doubting the variety. Youthful, fresh, white peach, oak spices, a smoky nuance, fragrance swelling, with time a little earthy/ humus note adds to the complexity. Again on the palate that peach and spiciness clear to see, full of flavour yet a sense of freshness too with good structure and acid backbone keeping this nicely on point. Likely to reward the cellar yet it is drinking so well now. www.carrick.co.nz 2021 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso Chardonnay Price RRP $67 Rating Outstanding Exuberant nose jumps out to greet you. Gunflint, struck match, warm baguette, ripe peach, toffee apple, so engaging and complex. Power and wonderful depth of flavour without ever feeling heavy. Dances in the mouth, vibrancy and liveliness, now picking up a hint of licorice, though it’s pointless divining the parts as it’s all about balance, integration and the sheer completeness of this. Crackingly good. www.pegasusbay.com
