Having tasted this line up of Central Otago pinot gris, I then delved into the latest New Zealand Winegrowers annual report to get the ‘‘state of the play’’ of this popular variety. Its producing area of 2745ha in 2025 has it in fourth place behind sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and chardonnay and that area under vine has remained remarkably stable for the last five years. However; due to its higher yields it actually ranks second in the tonnage produced, though barely 7.6% of the sauvignon blanc harvest. It is also our second most exported variety though not quite 4% of the Sauvignon Blanc figure. It is fair to say that there is plenty to go around. 2025 Ruru Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $25 Rating Very good to excellent Aromatic nose, flower petal, peach, vanilla bean, fruit sherbet, quite engaging. Red apple and pear notes leap to the fore, a little spice, good texture, fruit driven with a touch of sweetness. Developing youthful chewiness as it opens up, good acid drive contrasting the just off-dry close. User friendly, especially if you love that wisp of sweetness. www.ruruwines.co.nz 2024 Rabbit Ranch Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $20.50 Rating Very good to excellent Fruit pastille characters are joined by chopped herb influences and nashi pear. A drier style with good structure, some fruit pithy phenolics adding to the mix, with lip- smacking juiciness bringing this very nicely to a close. Air allows this this to really open up on the nose, while the palate gains stony mineral and apple notes. In a good place to enjoy now. www.rabbitranch.co.nz 2024 Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $36 Rating Excellent A deeper register to the aromatics, marzipan, apple, a little honeycomb too, subtle yet intriguing. The palate brings in hard candy notes neatly balanced by tangy freshness. Fruit sweet yet dry, well structured with great mouth feel and finish. Just feels effortless. A real juicy quality gets the salivary glands going, the whole package is quite engaging. www.hawksheadwine.com 2023 Domaine Rewa The French Potter Series Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $42 Rating Excellent to outstanding Deeper colour suggests some skin contact. A very different style, tilting a hat to Europe. Cashew and almonds, dry honey, clay, fruit in support, intrigue and fascination. There’s grainy minerality to the palate alongside almost oily richness and structure, yet a cooling quality too. Complex, full of interest, hits so many different buttons, would be an amazing companion to food. www.domainerewa.com 2024 McArthur Ridge Falls Dam Alexandra Pinot Gris Price RRP $25.99 Rating Excellent Pears and dried apricot leap from the glass, nutty influences, a sense of florality, bonfire embers perhaps. The palate is rich, simply brimming over with flavour, echoing the notes on the nose along with dry honey. Lovely generosity, fruit ripeness/sweetness on the mid-palate yet crisp and dry on the close. Very classic Gris, you can’t go wrong with this. www.mcarthurridge.com 2023 Gibbston Valley School House Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $42 Rating Excellent to outstanding A complex nose less about the fruit; nutty characters, stony minerality, flower petal, cooked apple. While there’s depth of flavour and quiet power this remains light on its feet. Wonderfully balanced and integrated, nice grip, it comes across as serious, yet approachable and quite complete. Incredibly moreish, you really do want another glass. www.gibbstonvalley.com
