One of my tasting buddies recently returned from Europe and post tasting through this group of wines decided to "blind me" on a couple of Central Pinots. The term "blind me" reminded me that in so many hobbies or passions there is language that can often be impenetrable to someone on the outside; wine is a pertinent example. My friend did not throw Pinot into my eyes, nor did he wrap me in Luxaflex blinds, but he poured me the wines masked, or "blind", so that I would have no preconceptions as to producer, etc. The same way today’s wines were tasted. One wine term explained, only a few hundred to go. Revel in this group of Pinot Noirs from anywhere but Central. 2024 Balvonie Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $34.99 Rating Very good to excellent Perfumed florality, pencil lead, wisps of earth, red fruits, a backdrop of herb. Youthful, medium- weight, fresh acidity lending a nicely juicy quality. Feels already open and ready to enjoy, although there’s a lick of fine tannin providing backbone. Now strawberry and berry compote, the fruit more to the fore, accentuating its youthful character. www.balvonie.nz 2023 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $28 Rating Excellent Savoury notes lead, tilled earth and hummus, oak nuances, red fruits swelling. Deceptively pale colour given its depth, power in the mouth, the structure and acidity evident. The palate continues down the savoury, forest floor path nicely balanced with the fruit weight, spices and oak nuances. The fruit grows with air, feels like a lovely complement to food www.riverbyestate.com 2023 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir Price RRP $58 Rating Excellent to outstanding Savoury characters lead once again, oak spices, mixed red and dark fruits offering richness, a delightful perfume grows from the glass. Depth of fruit clear to see, bright vibrancy, while the acid balance leaves you feeling refreshed. Wonderful counterpoint of power without weight, complex, engaging, draws you back for more. A wisp of reduction with air adds to the complexity. Smart wine. www.pegasusbay.com 2024 Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent Ripely fruited, blueberry at first, red and dark fruits, smoke, savoury notes arriving with air. A burst of sweet fruit yet closes nicely dry. Good depth and weight to this, acid and tannin neatly supporting the whole, a lovely, long finish developing a lip- smacking salivatory quality. The fruit depth gives this immediate drinkability, but there’s gas in the tank for future development and complexity. www.tkwine.co.nz 2023 Riverby Estate S.V Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $36 Rating Excellent to outstanding A nebbiolo like hue. Perfumed, spices, light savoury nuances, the fruit neatly in support, caramelised strawberry perhaps? Power and backbone evident, spices, earthy humus, graphite, now a sweet fruit core comes into play, the flavours hang long in the mouth as it draws to a dry, spicy close. Perfume swelling, chewiness and grip, integration and quiet power without ever seeming heavy. www.riverbyestate.com 2023 Riverby Estate S.V Forgotten Rows Marlborough Pinot Noir Price RRP $36 Rating Excellent A sense of florality, lavender perhaps, lead pencil, a dusty quality, the fruit ever in support but not intrusive. Fascinating palate, hits different buttons altogether, beginning with silkiness before the fine, tannic grip shows its mettle. There’s a balsamic like influence, real brightness to the acidity and flavours that linger in the mouth. A stealth bomber that creeps up on me. www.riverbyestate.com
