Make most of everything

Food waste is an issue facing everyone and everyone can do their bit to help reduce the amount they throw in the bin.

It is something vegan cook book author Celine Steen is very passionate about, hence her latest book The No-Waste Save-the-Planet Vegan Cookbook.

While she is American, many of the concepts and advice can easily be translated to New Zealand, as Kiwis also have a propensity for creating food waste. Love Food Hate Waste figures show New Zealanders throw out 157,389 tonnes of food a year.

Recently the issue was highlighted in Dunedin with a dinner made from upcycled food waste. The University of Otago also has a research centre dedicated to the problem.

So this book is timely, as it gives people recipes and useful tips on how they can make a difference.

It is targeted at vegans, as Steen says just because a person has made the choice to become vegan it does not equate to a no-waste lifestyle.

‘‘Just like it is possible to be vegan and eat unhealthy food, it is possible to be vegan and throw far more into the bin than seems reasonable.’’

She says the pandemic has also highlighted the issues people are facing with food security, so it is even more important people are aware of what they are buying and not eating.

Steen believes people should adopt the approach of their grandparents, who would have not thought twice about eating leftovers and cooking odd-looking vegetables.

‘‘Avoid purchasing too much food in the first place.’’

Tips include how to save, store and cook parts of plants people might normally throw out and how to store food with as little to no packaging as possible.

Then she shares recipes including soups, sides and salads, main courses and desserts that leave no unusable waste behind or uses all parts of the produce grown or bought.

Mamou’s favourite miso bowls

When my mum visited us in 2017, she had the bad luck of falling and breaking her hip. Upon her return from a week-long hospital stay after surgery, I made a huge pot of miso soup that she adored, made repeatedly, and mentioned frequently.

Serves 4

For sriracha tempeh

225g tempeh, cut into 4 rectangles, each halved to create 2 thin rectangles

2 Tbsp (30ml) tamari

1 Tbsp (20g) agave nectar

1 Tbsp (15ml) vegan sriracha

1 tsp ume plum vinegar

1 tsp toasted sesame oil

Oil spray

For soup

2 cups (about 320g) leftover roasted vegetables of choice (carrot chunks, bell pepper strips, broccoli florets)

1 cup (about 120g) leftover sauteed greens of choice (bok choy, kale, spinach)

Prepared noodles of choice, for serving (optional)

Πcup (80g) white miso, or to taste

2 cups (480ml) hot water

2 cups (480ml) mushroom dashi or kombu dashi or vegetable broth

2 large garlic cloves, grated

2 tsp grated peeled fresh ginger (optional)

Gochujang or vegan sriracha, for serving (optional)

Toasted sesame oil, for garnish (optional)

Lime wedges, for serving

Chopped scallion, white and green parts, for serving

Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving

Method

1. To make the sriracha tempeh: Place the tempeh rectangles in a 23 × 33 cm baking dish.

2. In a small bowl, whisk to combine the remaining ingredients, except the oil spray, and pour the glaze on to the tempeh. Brush to apply evenly all over. Refrigerate to marinate for at least 2 hours, brushing again to apply the marinade evenly halfway through the marinating time.

3. Once almost ready to bake, preheat the oven to 190degC. Lightly coat the tempeh with oil spray.

4. Bake for 8 minutes, flip the tempeh, and bake for another 8 minutes until golden brown. Set aside.

5. To make the soup: Have the vegetables, greens, and noodles (if using) heated and ready to eat.

6. In a medium-size bowl, whisk to combine the miso and hot water until fully dissolved. Add the dashi, garlic, and ginger (if using) and whisk to combine.

7. Divide the vegetables and greens among four bowls. Add the noodles (if using). Ladle 1 cup (240ml) of broth on top. Crumble the tempeh, or slice it thinly, and arrange on top, along with a squirt of gochujang (if using), a light drizzle of sesame oil (if using), a wedge of lime, chopped scallion, and fresh cilantro.

Noochy sourdough crackers

Eons ago, I made crackers with nooch, shaped like little ducks, and called them Cheezy Quackers (my husband’s idea). We still eat them regularly but I wanted an updated version that would make good use of the sourdough discard that’s invading virtually everyone’s fridge these days. This recipe adds that recognisable sour flavour and is even more amazing when stale beer is used as a complement, if extra moisture is needed when making the dough. Double whammy on the no-waste part!

Makes 45

Scant 1/2 cup (113g) sourdough discard from the fridge

1/2 cup (60g) all-purpose or whole-wheat pastry flour, plus more as needed

⅓ cup (27g) nutritional yeast (powder)

1/4 cup (56g) vegan butter or coconut oil

1 tsp fine sea salt

Few turns of the peppermill, or to taste

Cold stale vegan lager beer or seltzer water, as needed

1. Preheat the oven to 180degC. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a food processor fitted with the dough attachment, combine the sourdough discard, flour, nutritional yeast, butter, salt, and pepper. Mix or pulse just to combine. Add the beer 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time until a dough forms: it should not be too moist or too dry. If it is too moist, add a little more flour, as needed. Avoid overworking the dough.

3. Divide the dough into 3 portions: this will make for an easier time rolling it out and will prevent overhandling the dough. Roll the dough on a silicone baking mat or parchment to a little under 0.6 cm thick (if using parchment, it can be reused for other baking purposes). Cut out shapes using a small cookie cutter, about 2.5 to 5cm. Repeat until you run out of dough, rolling it again between batches. Place the crackers on the prepared baking sheets.

4. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, depending on the thickness, until the crackers are light golden brown on the bottom and quite fragrant. Transfer to a cooling rack. Store leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Orange-habanero jam

I’ve always had a soft spot for pepper jelly, and what better way to enjoy something similar in a homemade way. I call this jam because it doesn’t have that translucent quality jelly has, since the whole fruit is used. You’re putting the whole orange to good use here, including the peel, for amazing flavour and colour. Be sure to adjust the heat level by choosing to leave the seeds of the habanero pepper in (hot), partially remove them (medium), or remove them completely (mild).

Makes 1 cup

1 medium-size organic orange, scrubbed clean, chopped with peel still on

1 habanero pepper, stemmed, seeded as desired

½ cup (120ml) unsweetened pineapple juice

½ cup (120ml) brine from pickled red onions or distilled white vinegar

Generous ½ cup (170g) agave nectar

2 Tbsp (25g) granulated pure cane sugar

1 tsp Diamond kosher salt

Method

1. In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients. Blend on high speed until smooth. Transfer to a medium-size saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to medium, and cook until thickened and reduced by about half the original amount. This will take about 1 hour. Stir occasionally and adjust the heat as needed to prevent burning.

2. Let cool for 10 minutes before transferring to a heat-safe, pint-size jar. Close the jar and refrigerate once completely cooled. Use within 1 month.

Savoury sweet cluck-free strips sandwiches

Because I can never say no to a good sandwich. Or to peanut butter, and oh, Orange-Habanero Jam! Don’t know if you’ve tried soy curls yet, but if you liked chicken before going vegan, you’ll be happy to hear they’re the perfect cruelty-free substitute.

Makes 6

For strips

225 g dry soy curls

1 3/4 cups (420ml) vegetable broth or other broth or dashi

1/4 cup (60ml) soy sauce

2 Tbsp (10g) nutritional yeast (powder)

2 Tbsp (30ml) vegan sriracha

1 Tbsp (15ml) toasted sesame oil or any oil

1 Tbsp (20g) blackstrap molasses

1 tsp chipotle chile powder

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp onion powder

For sandwiches

6 vegan soft bread rolls, lightly toasted

Orange-Habanero Jam (see recipe on this page) or vegan hot pepper jelly, for serving

Natural nut butter of choice (lightly salted, dry-roasted cashew, peanut, or almond butter), for serving

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200degC.

2. To make the strips: In a large baking pan, combine the soy curls and broth. Let stand for 5 minutes, stirring frequently to make sure the curls are soaking in the liquid. Note that the curls won’t be fully rehydrated before adding the remaining ingredients. Don’t worry.

3. Add the remaining strip ingredients and stir well to combine thoroughly.

4. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has been absorbed and the curls are pleasantly browned. Let cool slightly before using. Or refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use (for up to 4 days).

5. To make the sandwiches: Spread a generous layer of jam on one side of the toasted bread. Spread a generous layer of nut butter on the other. Pile on a handful of soy strips, close (the sandwich), and open (your mouth). Repeat to make the remaining sandwiches and serve immediately.

6. To reheat leftover strips, place them in a small skillet and reheat on medium heat until warmed through, about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally.