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The pepperiness and the purity of fruit of Hawkes Bay syrah stand out as its best characteristics.
However, many are expensive and, with concentrated fruit and big oak, are often hard work to enjoy, despite their huge cachet.
This is exacerbated because many are released young when they are still raw and edgy.
It's best to give them another year's bottle age, or at least decant them before drinking.
It's hard to beat an Australian shiraz (an alternative name for syrah) and its blends at any price range.
If you are not keen on the jamminess of many South Australian shirazes, try some from cooler regions such as Adelaide Hills, Heathcote or Margaret River.
(about $15).
A light fragrance and decent fruit without too much jamminess, and a savoury undertone make this an enjoyable quaffer.
Often found on special.
2 stars (out of 5)
Average value
(about $28) A blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvedre from ancient Barossa vines, this hints of strawberries and spice, and a balance and harmony make it particularly delicious.
Charming, easy and delicious.
Match with Chinese five-spice pork
3 stars (out of 5)
(about $25) Bright fruit hinting of berries and cherries supported by oak with spicy and savoury hints, with a supple finish.
3 stars (out of 5)
Average value
(about $31) Pure, ripe fruit hinting of cherries and chocolate, supported by spicy oak and a bright, tingly finish.
Stylish, cool-climate Australian shiraz.
3 stars (out of 5)
Average value
(about $38) Bright cerise in colour, peppery to the point of sneezing, this young wine has concentrated fruit backed by oodles of oak, but despite its showiness, it promises poise and harmony.
Give it some bottle age for best results.
4 stars (out of 5)
Poor value
(about $39) Attractive aromas, rich, ripe, savoury, dark berry fruit supported by nicely balanced, spicy oak, texture, length, charm, and a certain elegance and harmony.
Delicious. Recommended for a special occasion.
5 stars (out of 5)
Average value