REVIEW: Hurrah for Syrah

The pepperiness and the purity of fruit of Hawkes Bay syrah stand out as its best characteristics.

However, many are expensive and, with concentrated fruit and big oak, are often hard work to enjoy, despite their huge cachet.

This is exacerbated because many are released young when they are still raw and edgy.

It's best to give them another year's bottle age, or at least decant them before drinking.

It's hard to beat an Australian shiraz (an alternative name for syrah) and its blends at any price range.

If you are not keen on the jamminess of many South Australian shirazes, try some from cooler regions such as Adelaide Hills, Heathcote or Margaret River.

Knights Tale South East Australian Shiraz 2007 (about $15).

A light fragrance and decent fruit without too much jamminess, and a savoury undertone make this an enjoyable quaffer.

Often found on special.

2 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Hewitson Miss Harry Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre 2005 (about $28) A blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvedre from ancient Barossa vines, this hints of strawberries and spice, and a balance and harmony make it particularly delicious.

Charming, easy and delicious.

Match with Chinese five-spice pork

3 stars (out of 5)

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Starvedog Lane Adelaide Hills Shiraz Viognier 2005 (about $25) Bright fruit hinting of berries and cherries supported by oak with spicy and savoury hints, with a supple finish.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

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Chandon Green Point Heathcote Shiraz 2005 (about $31) Pure, ripe fruit hinting of cherries and chocolate, supported by spicy oak and a bright, tingly finish.

Stylish, cool-climate Australian shiraz.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Craggy Range Block 14 Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006 (about $38) Bright cerise in colour, peppery to the point of sneezing, this young wine has concentrated fruit backed by oodles of oak, but despite its showiness, it promises poise and harmony.

Give it some bottle age for best results.

4 stars (out of 5)

Poor value

Cape Mentelle Margaret River Shiraz 2005 (about $39) Attractive aromas, rich, ripe, savoury, dark berry fruit supported by nicely balanced, spicy oak, texture, length, charm, and a certain elegance and harmony.