Sometimes wines arrive to be tasted that don't fit my general varietal tasting categories, or are oddball releases at a particular time of year.
Here's a real mix: a sole rosé (most are released in time for summer), the new release of Cloudy Bay's sparkling, vintage Pelorus, another smart bubbly from Australia, and a handful of delicious stickies.
Corbans Cottage Block Cut Cane Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2008
(about $32, 375ml)
There are many ancient techniques for drying grapes partially before making sweet wine, and one, used with this wine, is to twist or cut the stems to stop the sap flowing so the flavours and sugars concentrate.
This fragrant pinot gris is lusciously sweet and seductively simple, with wonderful purity of fruit hinting of grapefruit, quince, spice and creme brulee, and finishing with a bright, clean acidity.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Good value
(about $37, 375ml)
Expect something full on from Pegaus Bay's top wines.
This pungent, barrel fermented botrytised semillon is funky with undertones of fresh guava, golden kiwi, toffee and toasty oak.
Lusciously sweet, complex and textural, it will mellow with a little more bottle age. Good with a rich blue cheese.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
(about $50, 375ml)
Lusciously golden, this sweet wine suggests pure lime and citrus with background notes of dried apricots, honey and raisins from the botrytis.
It's concentrated and unctuously sweet, but with a lovely purity and a clean finish.
It will develop with a few years bottle age.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Below average value
(about $53)
With a silver label (as opposed to the cream-labelled non-vintage), this bubbly is delicious with hints of nuts, lemon and freshly baked bread, a creamy mousse, crisp stylish finish and an immensely long aftertaste.
It manages to be both taut and elegant and yet decadently yeasty and textural.
- Five stars (out of five)
- Average value
(about $40)
From the highlands of Victoria, this Australian bubbly, a blend of the traditional pinot noir chardonnay and pinot meunier varieties, hints of new leather, freshly made bread, bright stone fruit with an understated hints of nuts and a crisp, long finish.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
http://www.brownbrothers.com.au
(about $20)
Made from merlot, this rosé is dry and savoury with a hint of red berries and nuts. Better with food than by itself.
Available by mail order or at some cafes.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Average value
~ ANOTHER GLASS~
Cloudy Bay Pelorus non vintage
(about $35)
A fine bead with a creamy hint of nuts, buttered toast, caramel and freshly baked bread, a hint of sweetness and a crisp, long finish.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
- Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
