There is a buzz surrounding German Pinot internationally and there were some stylish wines in the lineup, but the group questioned the aspirational pricing and the heavy oak impact in many of the wines; it’s as if the winemakers equate new oak and high prices with a quality statement. A comment was made about them being where Kiwi Pinot was many years ago. Still, it was a fascinating exercise.
2023 Burn Cottage Moonlight Race Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Engaging nose of
spices, earthy qualities,
graphite, darker fruits
and perfume hinting at
violets. Drier in the
mouth than the nose
might infer, some whole
bunch stalk elements
joining the dark fruits
and earthiness, a forest
floor/mushroomy
nuance coming with air.
Great structure, quite
serious, fruit sweetness
comes with aeration.
The overall sense is of
elegance.
2023 Ruru Cellar Door Selection Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Fascinating scents,
perfumed in a darker
register, then bramble,
beetroot, liquorice,
juniper, fruit supporting
the whole, delightful.
Supple in the mouth, red
fruits swelling, really
lovely balance as fine
tannins and acidity kick
in, perfectly aligned to
the fruit weight. Nice
energy and vitality with a
lip-smacking quality to
the close. Already
drinking superbly but I’m
sure will kick on too.
2020 Domaine Thomson Explorer Reserve Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Interesting things going
on, rhubarb, coffee
grounds, perfume,
earth, salinity/
minerality, red fruits, a
sense of development,
engaging. The palate is
still taut and structured,
there’s truffley/forest
floor like nuances,
spices and hints of wild
herb. For my palate this
is crying out for food,
serious, full of interest
and smartly made. This
should reward time in
the cellar too.
2024 Carrick Pot de Fleur Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
The nose takes a
tangent from other
wines, tilled earth, stony
minerality, cracked
pepper, a hint of
intrigue, tar, the fruit a
supporting act. In the
mouth the core of sweet
fruit kicks in, contrasted
by a tangy quality,
crunchy, surprisingly
grippy and chewy.
There’s purity to the
fruit, wisps of boiled
sweets on the close,
great textural impact,
manages to challenge
yet envelop you.
2023 Gibbston Valley GV Collection Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Quiet warmth and
generosity, subtlety,
nothing dominating, all
about the whole. The
palate by contrast is
bright, fleshy and juicy,
really grabbing your
attention, ripe, yet dry
rather than ‘sweet’.
Deceptively powerful grip,
a wine that speaks of
potential rather than
immediacy. Depth, power,
serious wine that doesn’t
pander to being a crowd
pleaser. Now fragrance
and florality swell.
2022 Te Kano Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
A touch of struck match
shifts to mushroom and
truffle, savoury
elements, wild herb, the
fruit supporting the
whole, developing great
complexity. Real grip
and chew, flavour depth
without heaviness,
already drinking
superbly but also
speaks to potential.
Freshness now with air,
savoury notes framing
the long finish, a smart
wine with great
complexity that works
on all levels.
