Good things take time

Wine styles, such as sauvignon blanc, that are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks can have a relatively short turnaround from harvest to market-ready wine in bottle. So quick, in fact, that this year’s vintage is already hitting the market.

Chardonnay, by comparison, is always a vintage or two "behind" as it usually spends some time fermenting and/or maturing in some form of oak.

This sees a mix of 2018s and 2019s on show today, and a very fine collection they turned out to be.

2018 Ka Tahi
Rangatira Reserve
Hawke’s Bay 
Price: $28.95
Rating: Excellent
Appealing nose, subtly 
perfumed with nutty elements 
and bready/biscuity notes, 
growing and gaining a steely/
mineral nuance as it opens. 
A creamy/sour cream note 
leads the palate, an 
undercurrent of citrus too, 
flavour depth without 
being bombastic. 
Youthfully taut, showing 
lovely freshness and 
potential too.
2018 Riverby Estate
Single Vineyard
Price: $27
Rating: Excellent to 
Struck match, bonfire smoke, 
an earthy wildness to this. 
Tropical fruits lead, an 
interplay between 
pineapple, mango and 
peach with snappy 
lemony notes coursing 
through the wine. Its 
youthful zinginess would 
marry well with oily fish 
or creamy pasta. Grows 
in the glass, moving to 
orange citrus. Freshness, 
lift and a long close. 
2019 Kahurangi Estate
Mt Arthur Reserve
Price: $29.95
Rating: Excellent
Honey, hay, sour cream, 
biscuity nuances. A taut and 
structured palate sees this 
slow out of the blocks 
texture wise, but grows 
nicely with aeration. The 
palate mixes stonefruits, 
sour cream and hay/
straw, adding notes of 
peach and fresh 
pineapple over time. 
Fattens nicely, firm 
chewiness and brisk acid 
countered by lovely 
2019 Ka Tahi
The One
Hawke’s Bay 
Price: $15 (cellar door)
Rating: Very good to 
Just-ripe banana, sweet 
perfume, vanilla pod, 
smoky notes, too. Tight, 
with zingy acidity, playing 
in the sweet ‘n’ sour 
spectrum before  offering 
nectarine, banana and 
caramel/nutty nuances. 
A youthful wine, and 
while this continues to 
grow it maintains an 
attractive coolness, 
lifted by the citrus and 
nutty notes on the close.
2018 Church Road
Grand Reserve
Hawke’s Bay 
Price: $39.99
Rating: Outstanding
Matchstick, wood smoke, 
ripe peach, refined oak. 
Creamy, textural entry, 
then the underlying 
structure and acidity kick 
in. Nice balance and 
integration but somewhat 
reserved at first. Aeration 
totally transforms this, 
the fruit swells, 
complexity builds and it 
develops a seamlessness 
before the long, long 
finish. Superb, and lovely 
2019 Kahurangi Estate
Price: $21.99
Rating: Very good to excellent
An intriguing piquancy shifts 
to warm bread and biscuity 
notes, the fruit in support. 
Power in the mouth, bran 
biscuit and tropical fruits 
melding sweetness with 
refreshing sour notes. 
Nice texture, a dry, nutty 
and biscuity finish hangs 
in the mouth. The nose 
becomes more subtle but 
there’s a roundness and 
richness that has lots of 


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