NZ chardonnay going from strength to strength

I can’t but help feeling (after tasting these wines amidst a bigger grouping) that Chardonnay in New Zealand is going from strength to strength. The lineup of ten wines scored consistently highly, were an absolute pleasure to taste and equally importantly, I’d simply love to drink any of them. Moreover, while prices are following the pattern of everything else and creeping up, they still remain remarkably affordable for their quality.

While this group covers South Island regions, I’ve bought some marvellous wines from Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay recently which just reinforce the level of quality that you find across the country.

2023 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $28
Rating Excellent
 
Nicely expressive nose, 
no doubt to the variety. 
Peach, nutty aspects, 
light oak seasoning, a 
flinty touch, fresh and 
appealing. There’s a 
fine, almost grainy feel 
that just adds to the 
texture, cracking 
flavour depth with 
zestiness on the close 
leading to a delightfully 
fresh finish. Already 
drinking really well, but 
I feel there’s more gas 
in the tank for the future 
too.
 
 

2022 Isabel Estate Wild Barrique Wairau Valley Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $39.99
Rating Outstanding
 
Distinctive wild yeast 
component initially, 
struck match, gunflint, 
peach and clotted cream 
developing, grilled nuts, 
spices, stony mineral, 
complex. Wonderful 
depth and while the nose 
suggests fatiness this 
has elegance and 
finesse. Great structure, 
super balance, 
wonderful carry, actually 
rather classy. Now a 
little orange zest, the 
wild yeast notes part, so 
much going on here.
 
 

2023 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Old Vines Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $36
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Nose leaps out with 
caramel, full cream, oak 
spices, the ripe fruit 
perfectly pitched in 
support. Grip and 
chewiness to the texture, 
youthful and reminding 
you of its potential, time 
in the cellar will be a 
friend but already 
approachable as it 
manages that 
combination of balance, 
flavour depth, yet without 
anything overstated or 
out of place. Confident, 
elegant, cracking wine.
 
 

2022 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $45
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
So much happening on 
the nose, wild yeast 
match and gunflint, 
honeyed aspects, 
spices, ripe peach, that 
flinty note turning 
mineral. Some toasty 
char leads the palate, 
peach, nectarine, bright 
lemony citrus, exuding 
quiet richness and 
depth. Power matched 
by brightness, fresh, 
vital, a lovely each way 
bet to enjoy now or tuck 
in the cellar. You can 
easily reach for another 
glass.
 
 

2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $39
Rating Excellent
 
No doubting the variety. 
Youthful, fresh, white 
peach, oak spices, a 
smoky nuance, 
fragrance swelling, with 
time a little earthy/
humus note adds to the 
complexity. Again on the 
palate that peach and 
spiciness clear to see, 
full of flavour yet a 
sense of freshness too 
with good structure and 
acid backbone keeping 
this nicely on point. 
Likely to reward the 
cellar yet it is drinking so 
well now.
 

 

2021 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $67
Rating Outstanding
 
Exuberant nose jumps 
out to greet you. 
Gunflint, struck match, 
warm baguette, ripe 
peach, toffee apple, so 
engaging and complex. 
Power and wonderful 
depth of flavour without 
ever feeling heavy. 
Dances in the mouth, 
vibrancy and liveliness, 
now picking up a hint of 
licorice, though it’s 
pointless divining the 
parts as it’s all about 
balance, integration and 
the sheer completeness 
of this. Crackingly good.
 

 

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