New pinot noir vintages from some old favourites

I’ve been in the midst of a veritable deluge of pinot noirs recently, which is actually quite a nice place to be.

Not surprisingly, given Central Otago on our doorstep, the majority have been from Central so it is always useful to look at new vintages from labels I know well.

While many producers blend across various vineyards, this selection are all products of a single vineyard; four of these named, while two are from small producers who have just the one vineyard to work with.

The different vintages, sites, aspects and microclimates will all have an impact on the wine in bottle: part of the fun for tragic wine obsessives like me.

2022 Gibbston Valley Diamond Pisa Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $75
Rating Excellent
 
Savoury/umami note 
evident, pencil lead & 
shavings, red fruits, 
fragrance swelling, a touch 
of oak seasoning.
Tilled earth and forest floor 
mingle with the fruit, quite 
firm, chewy tannins 
initially adding a grainy 
aspect to the texture.
With air a touch of funk 
on the nose, raspberry 
builds, the wine grows, 
finish lengthens, with 
zesty acidity playing its 
part.
All comes together.
 
 

2022 Reefman Earnscleugh Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $40
Rating Excellent
 
Lead pencil, a gravelly/
dusty minerally nuance, 
black tea, fruit and 
growing perfume support 
the whole, wild thyme 
later. Juiciness, almost 
tangy, a lightnesss of 
being but deceptive 
structure underpins 
this. Coolness, berry 
fruits with a minty 
influence, flows to a 
long, fruit-filled close 
with mouth 
puckering grippiness.
Air brings savoury 
notes, the wine 
coming into its own.
 
No website yet
 

2022 Gibbston Valley Red Shed Bendigo Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $75
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Sweet fruits and 
dried fruits lead, 
perfume, a stony 
nuance.
An interesting wine 
that feels like it has 
all the elements but 
not yet quite fully 
integrated
The fruit swells 
nicely with aeration, 
there’s a tangy 
interplay going on 
between the acidity 
and the sweet fruit. 
A little betwixt and 
between today.
 
 

2021 Black Quail Bannockburn Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $55
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Fascinating nose of 
mushroom/forest floor, 
rosemary, savoury & 
spice, dark fruits & 
berries. A wisp of funk, 
fungi, smoky, savoury, 
bacon fat, dark fruits 
overlaid on quite a taut 
frame that’s "standing 
at attention" for now.
Power here yet light 
on its feet, driven by 
complexity rather 
than fruit.
Post reveal, a very 
different expression 
to past vintages. I like 
it, but it could polarise.
 
 

2021 Dicey Black Rabbit Bannockburn Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $80
Rating Excellent
 
Richness and depth to 
the nose, dark fruits, 
savoury elements, a 
backdrop of spice and 
herb. Ripe fruits, spices, 
again power and depth 
here. Voluptuous, 
powerful style yet 
with fine tannins that 
are so in tune with 
the fruit. Generous, 
initially with a little 
glow on the close, 
developing a stony 
quality with time.
Picks up a chocolate 
note with air.
A big boy indeed.
 
 

2021 Dicey The Inlet Bannockburn Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $80
Rating Excellent
 
A deeper register to the 
nose, bonfire embers & 
smoke, darker, brooding, 
a wilder edge, a bit of 
intrigue.
The palate follows that 
dry & brooding path, 
there’s a bittersweet 
element to the close 
with bright acidity, 
tautly wound. This 
starts to blossom 
with air, opening up, 
fleshing out and 
coming into its own 
suggesting that it 
needs air and/or time 
to fully show its best.
 

 

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