Pinot Noir at a price for everybody

More than three decades ago I went up to Bannockburn to help friends plant their new vineyard.

I returned regularly for weekends, helping share the load of the various viticultural tasks and myriad other jobs that needed to be done. It was a formative experience for me to witness the life cycle of a vineyard from the ground up and gain understanding of the enormous amount of work that goes in behind the scenes to grow grapes and produce wine.

Such excitement to see that happen and to taste the fruits of your labours. I also had the opportunity to meet many people who have become integral parts of the Central wine community, who I regard as friends to this day.

At the time the focus was very much on producing quality Pinot Noir (that focus has been unwavering in Central ever since), predicated on selling bottles of Estate Pinot Noir at the then princely sum of $40-$50 into our local market.

That approach worked very well in the early years but ran into headwinds as the number of producers and volume of Pinot Noir increased, meeting a population that wasn’t growing at the same rate. It helped spur greater efforts on the export front, but also led to diversity in price points with much greater awareness of the value or entry level category that are "any day of the week" wines rather than special occasion ones.

For many wineries, the "entry level" bottling has become their biggest production wine, offering an affordable introduction to Central Pinot Noir, while selling at an attractive price point in restaurants.

I may be painting with a broad brush here but there are now four tiers of Pinot: the entry level at $20-$30, a rung above sitting in the $30-$45 category, estate wines in the $50-$70 bracket and then more serious wines ranging from $70 to well north of $100 with the top rungs being, arguably, world class.

This offers amazing freedom of choice for wine lovers and it really does seem that wherever things sit for you, the new price is right.

2023 Misha’s Vineyard Cantata Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $35
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Lifted, fresh, fruit 
pastille, spices, red 
fruits, cherry notes 
becoming more 
evident, a musky 
fragrance later. Bright 
and quite chewy in the 
mouth, fine grainy 
tannins that feel like the 
perfect 
accompaniment for 
food. Darker fruits now, 
tea leaf, bright acidity 
bringing freshness to 
the close. Struts its 
youthful side, saying 
pair me with food.
 

 

2024 Domaine Thomson Aspiring Single Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $35
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Darker, smoky, 
perfumed notes, spices, 
less about the fruit than 
the other elements. Nice 
weight, red fruits now, a 
crunchy quality to the 
mouth feel, balanced 
and integrated, flowing 
to a fine, long, dry 
finish. This feels to be 
already in a good place 
to enjoy, the fruit 
building, ripeness and 
richness growing with 
air, some good chewy 
grip also coming into 
play.
 

 

2024 Central by Monte Christo Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $40
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Feels superfluous 
divining individual 
components as this is 
so much about the 
whole, raspberry and 
darker fruits the 
foundation. The palate 
is juicy and vibrant, a 
cool feel to this with 
cranberry hints, while 
the tannins get into 
gear showing their 
mettle. Fresh, youthful 
and engaging and I 
suspect will be even 
more at home with 
food.