Pinot noir can at times seem ubiquitous in New Zealand, such is its reach across the country and across price points, making it accessible to all. Photo: Getty ImagesPinot noir is an ancient grape variety with its roots in Burgundy, France. There are written records of Benedictine and Cistercian monks producing wine from pinot noir in the Middle Ages but its lineage may stretch back to Roman times as there is archaeological evidence of vines having been grown then. Prone to mutation; there is now a huge diversity of clonal material that can offer different flavour profiles or be better suited to particular wine styles (Champagne and methode traditonelle, or blanc de noir for example) rootstocks, soils or microclimates. It is rare that someone trumpets the clonal mix in their sauvignon blanc or merlot, but this is routine for pinot noir. The grape prefers a cooler climate, which it finds in most Kiwi wine regions and is sensitive to yield while also requiring added work in the vineyard and the winery to get right: these are costs that ensure good pinot noir is never dirt cheap. Pinot noir can at times seem ubiquitous in New Zealand, such is its reach across the country and across price points, making it accessible to all. I love the democratic nature of this, but also love that if you are searching for a grape variety that can offer incredible complexity and an intellectual challenge, that you can also find bottles of pinot noir doing so. Sometimes dubbed ‘the heartbreak grape’, occasionally labelled ‘capricious’ as it can infuriate when it under-performs, yet can just as equally be swoon-worthy when the stars align. The disparity between the rarest and most expensive versus the cheapest is almost mind-blowing. A bottle of the most expensive current release pinot noir in New Zealand, a Grand Cru from Burgundy in France, will set you back roughly $11,000 if you were able to find one. The product of a 1.81ha vineyard, already recognised for its quality 500 years ago, is now firmly in the realm of collectables. At the other end of the spectrum I recently saw a Central pinot noir retailing for $11.99: the wine was as ordinary as its price tag. The current oversupply of wine across all varieties is seeing crazy, unheard of price points, though these will be unsustainable. If all the viticultural and winemaking inputs, along with costs of bottle, capsule, label, storage, shipping, marketing and so on are all predicated around a wine making a profit while selling for 40 bucks, that is now on special for $20, then clearly someone is taking a bath. Storage alone can be quite a cost for a producer, so some wineries may elect to take the hit to reduce that cost base while gaining cash flow, though this is not viable nor profitable in the longer term so enjoy the deals while they last. The following three wines are not going to be for the bargain hunters, but if you are looking for something swoon-worthy then step right up. 2024 Nevis Bluff S.V Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $49 Rating Excellent Richness evident, spice and savoury nuances, initially relatively subtle. The palate offers silky richness, wood smoke, savoury notes, darker fruits, there’s a quiet depth with the flavours enveloping the mouth, tannins nicely in support and quite fine. Already very much in the slot to enjoy now. The nose grows; fruit pastille/berry jam, this is young, vibrant and ready to please. www.nevisbluff.co.nz 2024 Maude Mt Maude Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $85 Rating Outstanding Fascinating nose of bonfire embers, bramble, wild herb, spice, ever swelling fragrance. Less about fruit but rather, all the other complexities. Every sniff reveals more. The palate a new level, depth and power, yet elegance and finesse, layers of flavour and complexity, structure yet wonderful integration. Totally beguiling, clearly serious wine that you don’t want to put down. www.maudewines.com 2022 Akitu A1 Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $75 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Beautiful florality in a deeper register, smoke, peonies, a savoury aspect, it’s not really about seeking individual parts, it’s all about the whole. Draws you back for more. Wonderful silkiness, beautiful balance, all the elements working in harmony, an engaging forest floor element framing the close. Effortless, light on its feet, lovely now yet gas in the tank too. A wine to mull over. www.akitu.wine
