One lump or two?

Sugar cubes at Olveston, served with silver claw tongs. Photo: Olveston
Sugar cubes at Olveston, served with silver claw tongs. Photo: Olveston
Many younger visitors to Olveston Historic Home are intrigued by the small white cubes on a silver tray beside the coffee service. The origins of why and how sugar was prepared in this way are rather interesting.

In medieval times, sugar was brought to Europe from the Holy Land, via the Indian subcontinent. It was known as sweet salt by the Crusaders. In the 15th century, Venice was the chief sugar-refining and distribution centre.

A luxury item in Europe until the 18th century, sugar then became more widely available and popular. By the 19th century it was considered a necessity. The usual shape in which refined sugar was produced and sold was a cone-form, often wrapped in indigo-coloured paper to accentuate the whiteness and, hence, purity. These sugarloaf cones required quite a degree of force to break into smaller pieces, first with hammer and chisel, then sugar nippers.

Sugar cubes (or lumps) were a Victorian-era invention, but many years passed after they had been invented in Bohemia in 1843 before they became available in England. The story goes that Jakub Rad's wife had several nipper-related injuries and suggested he come up with an idea for a single-serve piece of sugar. By grating, wetting, and pressing loaf sugar into a slot mold, then drying it overnight, Rad's factory in Moravia (then part of the Austrian empire) was able to produce uniform, individual portions. These were sold across Europe, but primarily to Vienna, encouraging its cafe culture.

Sugar-making in the 1600s, showing the cane-shaped sugar loaf molds. Image: Supplied
Sugar-making in the 1600s, showing the cane-shaped sugar loaf molds. Image: Supplied
Henry Tate, a grocer-turned sugar magnate (and namesake founder of London's Tate Gallery) bought the patent in 1875 for a new cube-making process from Eugen Langen, a German. Refined sugar was first placed in a centrifuge then hardened into bricks that were hand-sawn into cubes.

Increased demand for sugar in the 18th and 19th centuries brought about major economic and social changes; colonisation, plantations, slave trading and indentured labourers.

By 1900, 20% of the calories in the average British diet came from sugar. And now, in the present day, we ourselves are enslaved by its sweet addiction.

The sugar cube itself has fallen out of favour, it is now more trendy to serve raw sugar crystals or less refined brown sugar. A Victorian- or Edwardian-era housekeeper would certainly agree that was less refined!

 - Prepared by Jenny Longstaff, tour guide and educator at Olveston Historic Home.

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