France’s Loire Valley is its other stronghold with reds from Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon and Bourgueil all being 100% Cabernet Franc. While some are vinified to produce a bright, fruity style for early consumption, there are many serious examples that have a surprising propensity for ageing gracefully.
Further afield there are solid plantings in parts of Italy, in Chile, and snippets grown across the world, including New Zealand, where its 91ha have it just behind Malbec as the sixth most widely planted red grape variety, though paling in comparison to the 5807ha and 1077ha respectively planted to Pinot Noir and Merlot.
As in Bordeaux, the grape here has generally been hidden in blends, though there seems to be a groundswell of interest of late in releasing standalone versions. Clearview Estate and Beach House in Hawke’s Bay has been doing so for some time, now joined by Elephant Hill. Waipara has seen a quiet hotbed of interest with first The Boneline and now Black Estate and Pegasus Bay releasing solo versions, while this year has seen the inaugural releases by Sato and Te Kano in Central Otago.
Often medium-bodied, with its fragrance and refreshing herbaceous notes, there is a lot to like about Cabernet Franc. I hope to see more of them in the future.
2018 Elephant Hill Stone Cabernet Franc
Price: RRP $59
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Dark plum and
blackcurrant, stony
minerality, hints of
leaf, alluring perfume
(perhaps violets).
Blackcurrant and leaf
leads the way, a
stalky character too
and there’s a sense
of refinement and
elegance. Balance
and integration are
key words here,
offering drinkability
already yet potential
too. Quiet power here
on a medium-bodied
frame.
2021 Te Kano Northburn Cabernet Franc
Rating: Outstanding
Alluring nose, tobacco,
dustiness, herbs, dark
and brooding fruit,
florality and fragrance
swelling. Richly fruited
palate, leavened by a
crunchy quality to the
texture, led by
blackcurrant, dark
berries and wild herbs
backed by fine drying
tannins and crisp
acidity. Delightful
vibrancy, power
without weight, the
building tannins lending
sapidity to the long
finish.
2020 Clearview Estate Reserve Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Franc
Rating: Excellent
Fragrant nose of
tobacco, bramble, red
currant, gravel dust,
tilled earth and florals.
The palate has a juicy
sappiness to it,
brimming with red
fruits, smoke and
tobacco leaf, with a
long, fruit-filled close.
Medium-weight and
fresh, youthful with
enticing vivacity.
Possibly at its best in
the midst of its youthful
exuberance?
