The art of ta moko will visit Dunedin for this year's Puaka Matariki Festival, writes Bruce Munro.
The role of travelling ta moko artist is being kept alive by Julie Paama-Pengelly.
This coming week, Tauranga-based Paama-Pengelly (50) will be in Dunedin holding public demonstrations of traditional Maori tattooing.
Her presence in the South for the Puaka Matariki Festival continues the ancient practice of itinerant tohunga ta moko.
In pre-European times, not every tribal group had its own tattoo specialist, Paama-Pengelly said.
''In the old days, you waited until the moko artist travelled to your community, and they would work on whoever was ready.''
During her 10-day stay in Dunedin, the 20-year ta moko veteran will showcase her skills in two city venues, working with local people to create traditional Maori tattoos that reflect their stories and values, and doing it all as public art.
In traditional Maori society, tattooing was a revered skill.
Practitioners, like all with specialist knowledge, were known as tohunga. Some, but not many, were women.
For Paama-Pengelly, of Tauranga-based iwi Ngaiterangi, the path to becoming a ta moko artist began with studying Maori visual arts at Massey University.
She started with painting and continued with graphic art, but was captured by the power of ta moko.
''I witnessed someone getting significant moko. I realised it was a powerful way for our community to claim their pride ... reclaiming positive forms of identity.
''At the time, I had no idea it was going to become such a popular form of identity.''
Not everyone was keen for her to learn the art. Some thought ta moko should not be revived.
Others thought it was not a role for a woman.
But she persisted.
In the end, Paama-Pengelly acquired the knowledge and skills of ta moko by serving what was in essence apprenticeships with several proponents.
These days, tattooing is her full-time work.
''It is my passion ...''
Plenty of people come to her studio, but she also continues to travel.
Her trip to Dunedin is a continuation of historic links that have seen her coming South several times over the years.
From Monday to Friday, Paama-Pengelly will be demonstrating the art and practice of ta moko in the Josephine Foyer, Toitu Otago Settlers Museum.
The public will be able to watch as she talks with people about to be tattooed, hears their stories, develops and sketches designs representing the milestones or relationships they want commemorated, and then renders them in ink on skin.
She prefers Maori designs that have been used for generations.
''I'm not that fond of people making it a hybrid thing,'' Paama-Pengelly says.
''Because we have so much in our design history that still can be explored.''
Next weekend, she will stage a joint exhibition with her friend, visual artist Tracey Tawhiao.
During the coming week, Tawhiao will install her portion of the exhibition at 20A Dowling St.
Her work will usher viewers through a transitional area into a sacred space prepared for a tohunga ta moko.
''She will spend a whole week installing, and then I will go in and work in that ritualised space,'' Paama-Pengelly says.
